Fodor's Expert Review Itinéraires

In the spacious former premises of the noted Chez Toutoune, the once-faded surroundings have been revitalized here with taupe walls, a long table d'hôte (shared table), and a bar for solo meals or tapas-style snacks. The cooking, meanwhile, is as inspired as ever with highlights including a tart of foie gras, duck confit, and nutmeg; cod poached in a vegetable and sage bouillon; and a deconstructed lemon tart with a touch of celery. Prices run the gamut from a €49 four-course lunch to a €90 degustation menu at dinner.