Fodor's Expert Review Pani Cà Meusa

A civic institution facing Palermo's old fishing port, this standing-room-only joint has been serving its titular calf's spleen sandwich for more than 70 years. The original owner's grandsons still produce this local specialty sprinkled with a bit of salt and some lemon and served with or without cheese to a buzzing crowd of Palermo's well-weathered elders. The sandwich here may very well beat Antica Focacceria San Francesco's for the title of best in town, though not everyone will acquire the taste for it.