Fodor's Expert Review Taberna El Zurito

Locals and visitors rave about this tiny bar less than 10 minutes' walk north of the cathedral. It's one of the oldest bars in the city (established in 1912), has just two tables plus bar space, and is crammed with Jaén memorabilia—but the homemade dishes more than make up for the lack of elbow room. The free tapas that come with every drink are tasty and generous, and menu highlights include rabo de toro dehuesado con jamón (deboned oxtail with ham) and ventresca de atún rojo (red tuna belly).