The Amazon Restaurants

Dining in the Amazon is often an adventure in itself, with an abundance of ingredients that are rarely found outside the region. This is particularly true of giant Amazonian river fish, such as pirarucú, tambaqui, and tanadré, traditionally served with white rice and farofa de tucumã (palm fruit fried flour), or baio de dois (a bean salad from the Northeast). Where possible, sample freshly caught fish from the river, rather than the farmed variety; you’ll notice a big difference in flavor. Other highlights include caldinho de tucupi, jambu, e camarão, a regional delicacy made from manioc extract and mixed with a white glutonous gum and served with the spinach-like jambu leaf (which can turn the mouth numb). Exotic fruits, such as cupuaçu and tucumã, are ubiquitous in desserts and juices, as are excellent quality castanha de pará (cashew nuts), cultivated in the state of Pará.

Reservations and dressy attire are rarely needed in the Amazon (indeed, reservations are rarely taken). Tipping isn't customary except in finer restaurants. Call ahead on Monday night, when many establishments are closed.

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  • 1. Banzeiro

    $$$$ | Vieralves

    Run by the brothers Felipe and Thiago Schaedler, this restaurant specializes in top-notch regional Amazon cuisine. Fresh fish from the Amazon rivers reigns supreme here—you can't go wrong with the grilled tambaqui fish ribs served with tucupi farofa (palm heart fruit manioc flour). For dessert, try the banana cake drizzled with molasses. Popular with locals, the place fills up on weekends. Check the restaurant's website before going for English descriptions of their main dishes, as no menus in English are available in the restaurant, and most staff speak only Portuguese.

    Rua Libertador 102, Manaus, Amazonas, Brazil
    092-3234–1621
  • 2. Churrascaria Búfalo

    $$$$ | Vieralves

    Twelve waiters, each with a different cut of beef, chicken, or goat, scurry around this large, sparkling clean restaurant. As if the delectable meats weren't enough, tables are also stocked with side dishes, including manioc root, pickled vegetables, and caramelized bananas. You can eat as much as you like for a fixed price of R$90 per person.

    Rua Pará 490, Manaus, Amazonas, 69000-000, Brazil
    092-9219–7243

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner Sun., Credit cards accepted
  • 3. Lá em Casa

    $$

    Regional cuisine, prepared to exacting specifications, has earned Lá em Casa its stellar reputation and made it a favorite of the locals. Consider trying Belém's premier dish, pato no tucupi (duck in a yellow manioc–herb sauce served with the mildly intoxicating jambu leaf). Crabs on the half-shell covered with farofa (finely ground manioc fried in margarine) is another good choice, as is açaí sorbet for dessert. Sitting on the patio overlooking the river and fringed by tropical vines and bromeliads, you feel as if you're dining in the middle of the forest.

    Boul Castilhos França 707, Belém, Pará, 66010-020, Brazil
    091-3212–5588

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 4. Siria

    $

    This cheerful vegetarian spot serves some of the tastiest food in town. Settle into one of the few tables set out on the porch as chef and owner Bêtania whisks up fresh salads, soups, and excellent-value set-menus in her kitchen. A three-course lunch menu, including coffee and fresh juice, costs R$25.

    Rua Antonio Agostinho Lobato s/n, Alter do Chão, Pará, 68109000, Brazil
    093-9124–0224
  • 5. Abaré SUP and Food

    $

    This floating restaurant has an innovative menu (detox juices and exotic tapioca pancakes), trendy vibe, and complimentary stand-up paddleboards for diners to paddle out on the Rio Negro. It can get busy, especially around sunset, when good tunes enliven the bar with a party atmosphere. To avoid the crowds and sun's strongest rays, head for a morning coffee. Access is from Praia Dourada, where a small boat will transport you to the middle of the river.

    Rio Tarumã, Manaus, Amazonas, 69000000, Brazil
    092-9624–6940

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon.–Thurs. No dinner
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  • 6. Arco-Iris

    $

    With tables set outside on the main square, this is a great spot to watch the world go by over a varied menu that includes salads, vegetarian dishes, sandwiches, and excellent steak fillet. Inside, a shop sells semiprecious gems and artisan pieces from local tribes.

    Praça 7 de Setembro, Alter do Chão, Pará, 68109-000, Brazil
    093-3527–1182
  • 7. Boteco das Onze

    $$ | Cidade Velha

    In the Casa das Onze Janelas, the Boteca das Onze has thick stone-and-mortar walls stylishly adorned with antique instruments. The full bar has a complete drink menu with one of the largest selections of wines in the city. The patio has a view of the garden and river. A house favorite is the seafood platter for two. The all-you-can-eat lunch buffet is a good deal, and includes dessert but not drinks. The sunset happy hour is one of the most happening in town, usually with live music.

    Praça Frei Caetano Brandão, Belém, Pará, 66020-310, Brazil
    091-3224–8599

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch Mon., Credit cards accepted
  • 8. Cairu

    Campina

    The many regional flavors at ice-cream shop Cairu include some unique to the Amazon, such as taperebá, graviola, and cajá (cashew fruit), as well as the more familiar cocó (coconut), mango, and chocolate. Juices, sandwiches, and soft drinks are also served.

    Blvd. Castilhos França s/n, Belém, Pará, 66055-200, Brazil
  • 9. Cantinho Baiano

    $$$ | Santa Ines

    To shake up the conservative cuisine scene on Macapá, the Salvador-born owner of Cantinho Baiano began cooking specialties from Bahia State. These dishes, especially the seafood moqueca (fried fish in vegetable, coconut milk, and dendê oil), are not to be missed. The excellent river view, soft music, and colorfully clad waiters add to the ambience.

    Rua Beira Rio 328, Macapá, Amapá, 68000-900, Brazil
    096-3223–4153

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner Sun., Credit cards accepted
  • 10. Canto da Peixada

    $$$ | Praça 14

    Although the decor is clean and simple, the quality of the fish dishes speak for themselves—testament to which, it was chosen as the restaurant to host Pope John Paul II when he came to Manaus in 1981. Don't miss the house speciality caldeirada de tambaqui (tambaqui fish stew) and be sure to come hungry, as one platter comes with enough food for two people.

    Rua Emilio Moreira 1677, Manaus, Amazonas, 69020-040, Brazil
    092-3234–1066

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner Sun.
  • 11. Famiglia Sicilia

    $$ | Batista Campos

    From gnocchi to ravioli, flawless preparation of the basics distinguishes this Italian eatery from others. Everyone in town knows this, so reservations are a good idea—particularly on weekends. Be sure to try one of their 600 varieties of wine on offer. Don't leave without ordering a scrumptious dolce Paula (ice cream–and–brownie dessert).

    Av. Conselheiro Furtado 1420, Belém, Pará, 66035-350, Brazil
    091-4008–0001

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch Mon.–Sat. No dinner Sun., Credit cards accepted, Reservations essential
  • 12. Fiorentina

    $$$ | Centro

    The green awning and red-and-white-check tablecloths are hints that this restaurant serves authentic Italian cuisine. Pasta dishes are delicious, especially the lasagna fiorentina (with a marinara and ground-beef sauce). A buffet is also available every day for lunch.

    Rua José Paranguá 44, Manaus, Amazonas, Brazil
    092-3215–2233

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 13. Mascote

    $

    Since 1934 this has been one of the most popular and famous restaurants in town. The indoor dining area is enchanting, but the palm-lined patio is well lighted and inviting and has a good view of the river and the plaza. An extremely varied menu includes pizzas, sandwiches, steaks, and seafood.

    Praça do Pescador s/n, Santarém, Pará, Brazil
    093-3072–1700

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 14. Mistura Brasileira

    $ | Central

    Excellent sandwiches and a self-service buffet keep the Mistura Brasileira hopping. Try the beef fillet sandwich or the lasagna. The restaurant is housed in a hotel of the same name.

    Trv. Quinze de Novembro, Santarém, Pará, 68005-290, Brazil
    093-3522–4819

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner, No credit cards
  • 15. Palafita

    $ | Cidade Velha

    Ice-cold beers served in buckets, fruit caipirinhas, and pastéis de pato (deep-fried duck pastries) served with postcard-perfect views of the bay are why locals love Palafita. Palafita has music on weekend evenings. During the sunset happy hour, it is a great spot to mingle with locals.

    Rua Siquiera Mendes 264, Belém, Pará, 66810-050, Brazil
    091-3212–6302

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 16. Restaurante Tribal

    $

    Two blocks up from the plaza on Rua Antônio Augustinho Lobato is Restaurante Tribal. Quiet, clean, and friendly, it has excellent home-style grilled meat and grilled fish, and it's inexpensive.

    Travessa Agostinho Lobato, Alter do Chão, Pará, 68109-000, Brazil
    093-3527–1226

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