24 Best Restaurants in Puglia, Basilicata, and Calabria, Italy

Al Dragone

$$$ Fodor's choice

Dine on exquisite Gargano fare at this atmospheric eatery set in a natural grotto just next to the cathedral in the heart of the old center. The menu is dominated by locally caught fish, and although dishes draw on traditional recipes, you can expect the occasional innovation. The wine cellar, visible through a glass window in the restaurant floor, contains an exhaustive selection of great Pugliese producers. There's a smaller, more intimate room downstairs that serves as restaurant and piano bar. Dimora del Dragone offers five modern rooms and a lovely suite, all with fab views.

Cibus

$$ Fodor's choice

Amid the stone vaults and vine-leafy, light-dappled courtyard of this highly acclaimed old-town osteria turned Slow Food destination, the freshest Pugliese meat and produce are transformed into exquisite tapas-like dishes. Be sure to ask the amiable owner to show you his wine cellar and equally impressive cheese larder, where he personally controls the maturing process.

Garibaldi Bistrot

$$ Fodor's choice
The location—right on the piazza by the Duomo, with tables outside and a cool whitewashed dining room inside—is what initially draws people to this restaurant. But it's the tasty Pugliese produce used in simple salads, antipasti, pasta dishes, and classic seafood or meat mains that keeps people coming back.

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Hippocampus

$$$ Fodor's choice

Renowned for its simply crafted dishes made with the freshest seasonal catch, Cosenza's best seafood restaurant has (appropriately enough) a minimalist, blue-and-white, nautical-theme interior. Guided by a waiter, you might start with a selection of antipasti to share, followed by a classic pasta allo scoglio (spaghetti with mixed seafood) and a main fritto misto di mare (medley of fried seafood).

Via Piave 33, Cosenza, Calabria, 87100, Italy
0984-22103
Known For
  • exceptional, superfresh seafood
  • a chef happy to create vegetarian dishes
  • unfussy, welcoming vibe
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Mon. No dinner Sun. No lunch Tues.–Fri.

La Locanda di Alia

$$$ Fodor's choice

International food magazines have lauded this restaurant, where the wine cellar is well stocked and renowned chef-owner Gaetano Alia incorporates local produce and imaginative twists into the Calabrese dishes on the changing menu. La Locanda also has guest rooms in its adjoining Alia Jazz Hotel, which is surrounded by a lush garden and has a swimming pool.

A' Cucchiarella

$$

One of Diamante's most popular restaurants, in the old town center just off the seafront promenade, has atmospheric stone interiors. In the summer, sidewalk tables are the perfect relaxed place to watch the evening passeggiata while savoring inventive fish dishes.

Via Cavour 6, Diamante, Calabria, 87023, Italy
0985-877287
Known For
  • exceptional seafood with arty presentation
  • good vegetarian options
  • handsome stone-walled dining rooms and a terrace
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Mon.–Thurs. Oct.–Mar.

Al Gatto Rosso

$$$

Set in a handsome Stile Liberty palazzo, with outdoor seating and a smart, minimalist dining room, the well-regarded "Red Cat" has been serving elegant seafood since 1952. The third-generation owner and head chef Agostino Bartoli is renowned for his innovative dishes using the freshest fish and seasonal vegetables.

Alle Due Corti

$$

Renowned local culinary experts run this cove-ceilinged trattoria, where traditional Salentine cuisine is treated with both respect and originality. The white-walled interior is stark, but there's plenty of character in the simple, tasty fare and the gregarious chatter of local families. Menu mainstays include ciciri a tria (homemade pasta partly boiled and partly fried, with chickpeas), rice with potatoes and mussels, and crispy deep-fried squid.

Corte dei Giugni 1, Lecce, Apulia, 73100, Italy
0832-242223
Known For
  • cookery courses
  • hearty, tasty Pugliese food
  • Anthony Bourdain dined here for his Parts Unknown series
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Sun.

Antica Trattoria Comes Dal 1926

$$

Run by genial Giuseppe, this family-run trattoria serves classic seafood dishes in a relaxed, modern dining room. Freshly netted catch are heaped on hearty plates, like insalata di mare (seafood salad), seafood cavatelli pasta, and grilled gamberoni (prawns).

Via Pompeo Sarnelli 14, Polignano a Mare, Apulia, 70044, Italy
080-4248888
Known For
  • superb Pugliese seafood antipasti
  • big helpings, big value
  • cold cuts, cheeses, and Angus steaks
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Wed. No lunch Sun.

Caffè Alvino

$

This historic caffè-gelateria is in the heart of Lecce, with handsome interiors and seating out on Piazza Sant'Oronzo. From early morning to late at night this is a buzzy place where Leccesi come to meet and refuel on classic Salentino pastries like pasticciotti (ricotta- or egg-filled pastry) and zeppole. Those after savory can feast on local cheeses like burrata and hot aperitivi snacks like arancini and croquettes.

Da Cesare

$$

With an open kitchen and a veranda—so you can keep an eye on both the chef and the azure waters of the Golfo di Policastro—there's always something to see at this family-run seafood restaurant. Even better: it serves some of the freshest catches in town, with specialties like linguine con nero di seppia (with cuttlefish ink sauce), grilled squid, and grigliata mista (mixed grilled fish and seafood).

Via Nazionale Cersuta 52, Maratea, Basilicate, 85046, Italy
0973-871840
Known For
  • seafood dishes aplenty
  • open veranda with views
  • prominent position on coastal road
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Thurs. Nov.–Mar.

Il Poeta Contadino

$$$

There are actually two eateries here, but far superior is the well-regarded Poeta Contadino, which specializes in regional cooking with a creative twist and offers a refined dining experience amid candlelight that casts shadows on ancient stone walls. If you're on a budget, though, the more affordable Osteria del Poeta also serves bite-size traditional dishes.

Via Indipendenza 21–27, Alberobello, Apulia, 70011, Italy
080-4321917
Known For
  • exquisite seafood and meat dishes
  • stunning vaulted ceiling
  • extensive wine list
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Thurs., Reservations essential

Il Terrazzino

$$

The dining area is carved out of a cliff, and the terrace overlooks the famous Sassi ravine. From both you can enjoy such rustic specialties as foglie d'ulivo (stuffed olive leaves), zuppa di grano e ceci (cheese and chickpea soup), and pignata (lamb stew with seasonal vegetables).

Vico S. Giuseppe 7, Matera, Basilicate, 75100, Italy
0835-332503
Known For
  • stupendous views
  • classic Basilicata meat dishes and fresh pasta
  • interesting interiors (including a spectacular three-level wine cellar)
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Tues.

L'Aratro

$$

Welcoming and rustic, this eatery is set inside adjoining trulli, complete with dark-wood beams, whitewashed walls, and a patio for summer dining. It's a certified Slow Food restaurant, so local ingredients figure prominently in the traditional, often seasonal dishes. Try the antipasto dell'Aratro, which is almost a meal in itself, or the orrecchiete with anchovies and cime di rapa (broccoli rabe)

Via Monte San Michele 25–29, Alberobello, Apulia, 70011, Italy
080-4322789
Known For
  • diligent use of local produce
  • classic regional fare
  • gorgeous trulli venue
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Reservations essential

La Trattoria di Vincenzo

$

This cheerful family-run hostelry a few miles outside Cosenza, in the hamlet of Castiglione Cosentino, offers an authentic Calabrian experience, with dishes highlighting maialino nero (local black pork), Podolica beef, truffles, pistachios, and wild mushrooms. In the homey dining room, locals feast enthusiastically—perhaps starting with a wooden board piled with salumi and formaggi—at tables adorned with brightly checked tablecloths.

Via Ponte Crati 1, Castiglione Cosentino, Calabria, 87040, Italy
0984-401828
Known For
  • <PRO>hunks of local black pork and Podolica beef sizzling at your table</PRO>
  • <PRO>Calabrian cured meats and cheeses</PRO>
  • <PRO>friendly and family run</PRO>
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: No dinner Sun.

Le Zie Trattoria Casereccia

$$

Local families favor this tiny old-fashioned trattoria, where no-frills charm is matched by wholesome, unfussy food. Cucina casereccia (home-cooked) specialties include polpo in teglia (stewed octopus), baccalà al forno (baked salt cod), and the ubiquitous rustic purè di fave e cicoria (bean puree with wild chicory).

Via Costadura 19, Lecce, Apulia, 73100, Italy
0832-245178
Known For
  • warm hospitality
  • genuine local color and cuisine
  • best to book ahead
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Mon. No dinner Sun.

Marechiaro

$$

Built on wooden piles in the shadow of Aragonese Castle, this restaurant—in business for more than a century—seems to float like a ship in the bay by the bridge connecting new town with the island that contains the borgo antico. Its flower-filled terrace has outdoor tables in summer; in winter, eat inside and enjoy the view through panoramic windows.

Lungomare Marconi, Gallipoli, Apulia, 73014, Italy
0833-266143
Known For
  • <PRO>warm Gallipolino welcome</PRO>
  • <PRO>freshest raw ricci di mare (sea urchins)</PRO>
  • <PRO>jetty terrace over the water</PRO>

Osteria Antico Androne

$$
With intimate tables around the interior courtyard and mezzanine of the 18th-century Palazzo Teotino, this osteria is a truly atmospheric place to dine. The menu is a mix of traditional local dishes and classic southern Italian pasta combinations—with subtle Tropeana twists here and there.
Via Boiano 6, Tropea, Calabria, 89861, Italy
349-2887969-mobile
Known For
  • grilled and fried seafood
  • Calabrese fileja pasta with Tropea onions
  • meat and vegetarian options
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Mon.

Osteria del Tempo Perso

$$

On an old-town side street, this laid-back restaurant occupies two caves, where ancient rough-hewn stone walls contrast with elegant table settings. The service is friendly, and local seasonal dishes include antipasti mainstays like eggplant Parmesan or salumi di Martina Franca, as well as both meat and fish secondi.

Via G. Tanzarella Vitale 47, Ostuni, Apulia, 72017, Italy
0831-304819
Known For
  • house-made pasta with classic Pugliese sauces
  • excellent changing menu
  • local meat, including donkey
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Mon. Sept.–June

Pimm's

$$

Since the 1960s, this basement restaurant in the historic center has offered Tropea's top seafood dining experience, with such specialties as pasta with monkfish and almond pesto, smoked swordfish and prawns on red Tropea onions, and gnocchi filled with tiny clams and creamed pistachio nuts. The splendid sea views from the rear windows (ask for the tavolo in nicchia panoramica) are a surprising—and substantial—reason to head here. There are also five guest rooms on-site.

Principotto

$

For a great-value on-the-hoof snack, pop into this tiny, popular place for filled panzerotti (deep-fried pockets), friselle (crunchy durum-wheat bread), and schiacciatella Romana (pizza-like flatbread). Check the board for daily specials, including meaty ragù sauces and seafood like polpi (octopus) to fill your freshly fried pockets.

Ristorante al Pescatore

$$$

In the lively heart of the old town, opposite the castle, stands one of Bari's best seafood restaurants. The interior is rather sparse, with whitewashed walls and a vaulted ceiling, and the dining room can be crowded and noisy, but during the summer you can sit on the quieter outdoor veranda. Try the house specialty, crudo di mare (a platter of mixed local seafood), accompanied by a crisp salad and a carafe of uplifting Pugliese wine. Reservations are essential in July and August. Note that the restaurant also has six contemporary bed-and-breakfast rooms.

Piazza Federico II di Svevia 6/8, Bari, Apulia, 70122, Italy
080-5237039
Known For
  • seafood antipasto (crudo misto)
  • lively atmosphere with tables packed together
  • ricci di mare—a taste of the Puglian sea
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Tues.

Ristorante Opera

$$

Don't be put off by its nondescript modernist street location, as Opera delivers a well-crafted menu of superb-value seafood dishes, from sushi-style antipasti to beautifully prepared fillets of sea bream. The always innovative food is served on arty tableware in the smart yet welcoming contemporary space or on the street-side terrace outside.

Via Nicolo' Piccinni 151, Bari, Apulia, 70122, Italy
340-1774153-mobile
Known For
  • loved by locals and families
  • freshest seafood with a twist
  • innovative vegetarian options
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Mon. No dinner Sun.

Trattoria dalla Nonna

$$$

Waves lap at the shore just inches from your table at this elegant but unpretentious trattoria, which often has a cozy fireplace ablaze in winter. You must follow a narrow twisting lane to get here, but it's worth the effort for specialties like the raw seafood antipasto, which features shellfish you might not find anywhere else. Cozze pelose (local mussels), hiding inside their spiked-hair shells, are briny and buttery, and big local oysters are all about rich texture.