Welcome to Aventino and Testaccio
Making the Most of Your Time
Travelers with limited time often see just one sight here: the Bocca della Verità, or "Mouth of Truth." There are other gems, though, especially on a nice day. The Giardino degli Aranci (Garden of the Orange Trees) has spectacular views over Rome and the Tiber. Next to the giardino is Santa Sabina, one of Rome’s finest ancient churches, and the Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta, whose keyhole has a special surprise.
Visit Testaccio in the evening, when locals take their passeggiata (stroll) and restaurants fill with diners. Admire the Piramide di Caio Cestio and duck into the Cimitero Acattolico, or "Protestant Cemetery," one of the most atmospheric spots in Rome. In addition to the allure of its mix of ancient ruins and 19th-century architecture, Romans know that this is where to come for a good meal. The area is famed for its restaurants and has a unique culinary history that dates back to a time when the city's slaughterhouse sat at the edge of the neighborhood.
Top Reasons to Go
Santa Maria in Cosmedin: Test your truthfulness at the mouth of the Bocca della Verità and swoon over St. Valentine's relics.
Cimitero Acattolico "Protestant Cemetery": Full of flowering trees and friendly cats, this romantic graveyard even has an ancient Roman pyramid.
Piazza Cavalieri di Malta: Peek through the keyhole of the Priorato di Malta for a perfectly framed view of one of Rome's most famous landmarks.
Roseto Comunale: Overlooking the Circo Massimo, this seasonal rose garden offers a fitting and fragrant vestibule to Rome's most poetic hill.
Baths of Caracalla: South of the lovely Villa Celimontana Park are the imposing ruins of the Terme di Caracalla, once the second-largest bathing complex of the Roman world.
Getting Here
It's a spectacular 20-minute walk through ancient ruins like the Circo Massimo to reach the Aventine Hill from either the Roman Forum or the Campidoglio. There's a Metro stop by the same name at the foot of Aventino, too. If you're coming from the Colosseum or Trastevere, take Tram No. 3; from the Spanish Steps, take Bus No. 160; from Termini, Bus No. 175. For Testaccio, use the Piramide (Ostiense) Metro stop.
Quick Bites
Mordi e Vai. Sergio Esposito's stand at what will forever be called the "New" Testaccio Market (it moved in 2012) sells the best sandwiches in town. Meatballs, tongue, tripe, and other Roman classics are generously smothered on fresh bread, and there is always a vegetarian option, too. Grab a seat at the bar tables they have arranged in the stall next door and watch the general hustle of Romans lining up for their daily fix of panino perfection. It's open during market hours (Monday–Saturday 8–2:30). Testaccio Market Box 15, Via Beniamino Franklin, Testaccio, Rome, Latium, 00153. 339/1343344; www.mordievai.it. Closed Sun. No dinner.
