Welcome to Esquilino and Around
Making the Most of Your Time
Some of central Rome’s least touristy and best-loved neighborhoods, these areas also have a great deal to explore. With its bustling food market and multicultural shops, Esquilino represents a more modern Rome. Its rich street life has attracted numerous artists, actors, and filmmakers who often gather at some of the popular caffè in the neighborhood. With Termini at its center, this is also your bus and Metro hub for reaching other parts of Rome or hopping on a train for a day trip out of the city. Nearby Pigneto with its hipster bars and galleries is also an example of the ever-evolving city.
San Giovanni is well worth the Metro trip to discover the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano, a cathedral that holds centuries of church history in its walls. This residential area also has great flea market shopping if you have the patience to browse. For a bustling night out, head to San Lorenzo, home to the Sapienza University of Rome and the crowds of young students that go with it. And no visit to Rome is complete without a tour of the catacombs on the Appian Way, one of the ancient republic's earliest and most strategically placed roads, built in 312–264 BC.
Top Reasons to Go
Arcibasilica di San Giovanni in Laterano: Before the Holy See made the Vatican its permanent home, leaders of the Catholic Church made the Lateran buildings their primary residence for nearly 1,000 years.
Catacomb Country: Be careful exploring the underground graves of the earliest Christians—one wrong turn and it may be days before you surface.
Porta Maggiore: This white travertine "great gate" is an essential stop for understanding Rome's ancient aqueduct culture.
Teatro dell'Opera di Roma: If you've ever wanted to experience the Italian opera greats in their native land, from Verdi to Rossini to Puccini, this historic building with its charming rows of stacked theater boxes is the place to be.
Quick Bites
Gelato San Lorenzo. While San Lorenzo is filled with cheap fast food popular among students, this gelateria (open until 1 am) places quality above all else, and can easily rival some of Rome's most storied ice cream shops. All flavors are properly labeled for special dietary restrictions. The sorbetti here, from Amalfi lemon to raspberry basil, are bursting with flavor. Pair one with a creamier variety like pistachio, available in both regular and vegan versions. Via Tiburtina 6 , San Lorenzo, Rome, Latium, 00186. 06/4469440; www.gelatosanlorenzo.com.
Getting Here
The Esquilino Hill can be reached via the Vittorio Emanuele subway station, one stop from Termini station. Bus No. 150F runs from Piazza del Popolo to Esquilino.
