27 Best Restaurants in Pisa, Lucca, and Northwest Tuscany, Tuscany

Baghino

$$ Fodor's choice

In the heart of the historic center, Prato's best restaurant has been serving since 1870, capably run by five generations of the Pacetti family (daughters Guja and Silvia are presently in charge). The food lives up to the building's colorful history—part of the structure dates from the 15th century, when it was a convent; it was later the seat of the Freemasons.

Via dell'Accademia 9, Prato, Tuscany, 59100, Italy
0574-27920
Known For
  • sedano ripieno (a Pratese specialty)
  • filetto al pepe verde (beef fillet in a creamy peppercorn sauce)
  • superb wine list
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch Mon.

Bargilli

$ Fodor's choice

Cialde, a local specialty, are circular wafers made with flour, sugar, eggs, and almonds from Puglia. The Bargilli family has been serving them with their equally delicious ice cream since 1936. Try them at Bargilli, the family's shop and probably the best gelateria in town.

Cantina Nardi

$ Fodor's choice

It's open only for lunch and it's well off the beaten path (even if it is in the center of Livorno's shopping district), but getting here is worth the trouble: this tiny place has a short menu that changes daily, a superb wine list, and a gregarious staff. Its baccalà alla livornese (deep-fried salt cod served with chickpeas) is succulent and crisp; soups, such as ribollita, are very soothing. You could also pop in to sample a glass at the wine bar or to browse the shelves filled with wines from all over Italy.

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Da Delfina

$$ Fodor's choice

Delfina Cioni began cooking many years ago for hungry hunters in the town of Artimino, 20 km (12 miles) south of Prato. Dishes celebrate Tuscan food, with an emphasis on fresh local ingredients. Secondi such as coniglio con olive e pignoli (rabbit sautéed with olives and pine nuts—the house specialty) are a real treat. The seasonal menu is complemented by a fine wine list that draws heavily from superlative local vines, and the service is gracious.

Via della Chiesa 1, Artimino, Tuscany, 59015, Italy
055-871–8074
Known For
  • delicious grilled meats cooked on a roaring fireplace
  • gorgeous view
  • fine wine list
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Mon. No lunch Tues. No dinner Sun., Reservations essential

Lorenzo

$$$$ Fodor's choice

The affable Lorenzo Viani has presided here for more than 30 years, and his restaurant still draws a well-heeled, sophisticated crowd. The menu relies heavily on creatures from the sea; a typical starter is spaghetti versiliese, served with shellfish and fresh tomato as is done in the northern Tuscan coastal town of Versilia. Proceed to the magnificent aquatic version of bollito misto comprising crustaceans and fish, boiled, served with a savory mayonnaise. Or request one of several tasting menus, and let chef Gioacchino Pontrelli prepare the freshest items of the day. You can also choose vegetarian and terra (meat) tasting menus.

Via Carducci 61, Forte dei Marmi, Tuscany, 55042, Italy
0584-874030
Known For
  • sophisticated dishes in an equally sophisticated space
  • tasting menus with the freshest ingredients
  • stellar service
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Mon. No lunch Tues. or June–mid.-Sept., Reservations essential

Osteria Vecchio Mulino

$$ Fodor's choice

"The old mill" has an antique marble serving counter filled with free nibbles and two large wooden tables in a room lined with wine bottles. The enthusiastic host, Andrea Bertucci, proudly touts local products on his simple menu, which usually consists of superior cheese and affettati misti (mixed sliced cured meats); traditional local dishes with farro grain, polenta, pecorino cheese, trout from the many local streams, and salami round out the selections. Finish your meal with a caffè al vetro con miele di castagno (coffee in a glass with chestnut honey). This osteria is open from 7:30 am to 8 pm in the warmer months and from 11 to 8 in winter.

Pino Ristorante

$$$ Fodor's choice

Locals swear by this small, unpretentious trattoria a couple of blocks from the beach, where the Artizzu family has been serving specialties from the sea since 1979. The house specialty aragosta alla catalana con verdure (Mediterranean lobster with steamed and raw vegetables) is pricey but divine, and the spiedino di sogliola (sole kebab) arrives with silken mashed potatoes topped with bottarga (a smoked-tuna product). If you can't decide, opt for the tasting menu, which gives you a little bit of a lot of the menu. Patrizia makes all the desserts; remember to leave room for them.

Via Matteotti 18, Viareggio, Tuscany, 55049, Italy
0584-961356
Known For
  • dishes vary depending on conditions at sea
  • crunchy fritto misto
  • Patrizia's must-try desserts
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Wed. No lunch Mon., Tues., and Thurs.

Bar Cantini

$

At lunch and dinner time, this social hub for San Miniatans turns into a full-blown trattoria serving up local specialties. You can't go wrong with any of the wonderful panini, which are made with bread baked on-site and which you can eat seated at a table with a splendid valley view.

Bar Leonardo

$

It's a most unassuming bar a stone's throw away from a massive Medici villa up the hill, and you might be tempted to walk right past it. Besides serving the usual array of coffees, spritzes, panini, and wines by the glass, it turns out terrific pizzas.

Blend

$

Blend is open 10 am to 9:30 pm (after most places are closed) and serves sandwiches, pasta, and creative salads. It's on a quiet little piazza right around the corner from the Duomo. Outdoor dining may be had in warmer months.

Ciuste

$

Come here for a finely crafted sandwich (they have 18 different varieties on the menu), or something more substantial like the crostone ai funghi (a very large portion of toasted bread topped with local, fragrant porcini mushrooms). Tiny local blueberries, in season, appear in numerous guises on the dessert menu. At après-ski time, the place positively hums as the pizza oven is fired up, and happy skiers seat themselves on furniture that looks as if an Alpine Fred Flintstone designed it.

Dan's Dumpling Lab

$

If you're tired of Tuscan food (it can happen), this place on a side street near the Duomo serves up typical Asian dumplings, as well as those that are completely Italian, such as manzo e porcini (beef with porcini mushrooms). The insalatina di trippa piccante (spicy tripe salad) pays homage to both Asian and Italian cuisine. A fine list of artisanal beers is on offer, as are nicely priced glasses of wine.

Via Castel Cellesi 3, Pistoia, Tuscany, 51100, Italy
0573-178–3527
Known For
  • wantons di maiale condito in salsa piccante (pork wantons in a spicy sauce)
  • dumplings pecorino e n'duja (sheep's milk cheese with spicy Calabrian pork)
  • congenial host
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: No lunch Mon.

Il Convio

$$

A short drive down a steep, serpentine road from San Miniato brings you to this rustic country ristorante with sponged walls, stenciled decorations, and checkered tablecloths. The main courses are mostly Tuscan classics, such as bistecca fiorentina (a generous cut of grilled steak), but white truffles, the local specialty, are also showcased, and you can get them with pasta, crespelle (thin pancakes filled with ricotta), tripe, eggs, beef fillet—there's even a postprandial truffled grappa. All this good fare pairs marvelously with a fine selection of local, lesser-known wines. If truffles don't float your boat, there are nontruffled things on the menu and, at night, the staff fires up the pizza oven.

Via San Maiano 2, San Miniato, Tuscany, 56028, Italy
0571-408113
Known For
  • truffled specialties
  • tranquil country setting
  • the wine list
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Tues.

L'Ostricaio

$$

Locals crowd into this tiny place with a lovely view at lunch and dinner to feast on treats from the sea. Antipasti such as raw oysters or code di manzancolle (deep-fried shrimp) are perfect starters, followed by delicious pasta dishes or succulent mixed fry. Finish your meal with sgroppino (lemon sorbet pureed with vodka) to help cleanse the palate.

Viale Italia 100, Livorno, Tuscany, Italy
0586-581345
Known For
  • raw oysters and shrimp
  • creative pasta dishes
  • lively, convivial atmosphere
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Reservations essential

La BotteGaia

$$

Jazz plays softly in the background as you sip wine and dine either indoors, at rustic tables amid exposed brick-and-stone walls, or alfresco with a splendid view of the Piazza del Duomo. Typical wine-bar fare, such as plates of cured ham and cheese, shares the menu with a surprisingly sophisticated list of daily specials. For example, you might try insalatina con foie gras condita con vinaigrette (foie gras with dressed greens).

Via del Lastrone 17, Pistoia, Tuscany, 51100, Italy
0573-365602
Known For
  • a menu that dares to be different
  • fine wine list
  • splendid desserts
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Mon., Reservations essential

La Magnolia

$$$

Part of the elegant Hotel Byron but open to the public, La Magnolia is helmed by chef Marco Bernardo, who knows his basics and allows flights of fantasy to take over. The games begin with amuse-bouches; his take on fegatini (a typical Tuscan chicken liver spread) with a gelatin made from Aleatico (a serious red wine) sets the stage for what's to follow. Stellar service and a well-informed sommelier also make the meal memorable, especially when it's served poolside.

Viale Morin 46, Forte dei Marmi, Tuscany, 55042, Italy
0584-787052
Known For
  • creative menu
  • fantastic wine list
  • the serenity of the place
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Nov.–Mar., Reservations essential

La Prosciutteria

$

The very unassuming decor (wooden tables, wooden chairs) sets the scene for terrific Tuscan food. Though there's not a truffle dish to be found on the menu, there's lots to satisfy the palate. The tasty food arrives in nicely sized portions; excellent house wine is on offer, as are other wines by the bottle, which are all nicely priced; and desserts are pretty good here.

Via Ser Ridolfo 8, San Miniato, Tuscany, 56028, Italy
Known For
  • adherence to Tuscan classics
  • lampredotto (tripe) with salsa verde and hot sauce
  • apple crostata (tart)
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Mon.

La Vecchia Cucina di Soldano

$

This place could be mistaken for a grandmother's kitchen—it's completely unpretentious, with red-and-white-checked tablecloths and a waitstaff who treat you like an old friend. The restaurant teems with locals who appreciate the rock-bottom prices for well-prepared Tuscan specialties that include a superb tagliolini sui fagioli (thin noodles with beans).

Via Pomeria 23, Prato, Tuscany, 59100, Italy
0574-34665
Known For
  • Tuscan specialties
  • superb tagliolini sui fagioli
  • very reasonably priced
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Sun.

MagnoGaudio

$$

It bills itself as a caffetteria/ristorante, which means it opens at 7 in the morning for coffee, serves lunch and dinner, and then closes well after dinner is over. Warm-color, sponged walls and simple wooden tables and chairs provide the backdrop for some tasty fare. They're particularly big on fish here; if it's available, order the calamari spadellati su crema di fagioli alla paprika e valeriana (panfried squid on a creamy bean puree spiced with paprika and garnished with delicate green leaves). The lasagna is ample, cheesy, and thoroughly satisfying; the service is great; and the wine list is strong on local wines.

Osteria del Mare

$$

Husband and wife Claudio and Marila run this fish restaurant across the (busy) street from the docks. The decor's nothing to write home about (paneled walls with framed prints and navigational coats of arms)—here, it's all about the creative dishes and desserts.

Borgo Cappuccini 5, Livorno, Tuscany, 57000, Italy
0586-881027
Known For
  • inventive dishes
  • fish of the day
  • Marila's cheesecake
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Thurs.

Osteria i Macelli

$$

Honest Tuscan cooking prevails at this simple trattoria next to a large parking lot. No matter that there's no view: the terrific food and pleasing service—all of it served in a typical Tuscan dining room with high timbered ceilings—make a stop here well worth the detour. Locals swear by the affettati misti (sliced cured meats), which include the stellar biroldo (cured pork from nearby Garfagnana). The ravioli di castagne (ravioli stuffed with chestnut puree, sauced with radicchio and pancetta bits) should not be missed.

Pesce Baracca

$$

The first things you'll see upon entering this mercato e cucina (market and kitchen) are a row of dazzling, just-caught fish on ice and a display case with prepared foods to go. Select from a large array of crudi (including several raw oyster options) before opting for the fry (either mixed, anchovies, zucchini with squid, or fish croquettes) or the very tasty fish burger. Nice wines by the glass are on offer, as are bottles.

Ristorante Gennarino

$$

Lovers of seafood fill this unpretentious trattoria, where the unremarkable decor (yellowed walls, fluorescent lights) can be taken as a testament to the singular focus here on high-quality cuisine. Start with the insalata di mare tiepida (seafood antipasti), and follow with the flavorful spaghetti all'ammiraglia (admiral-style, laden with mussels, baby clams, squid, and fresh tomatoes).

Via Santa Fortunata 11, Livorno, Tuscany, 57125, Italy
0586-888093
Known For
  • fish of the day
  • excellent wine list
  • fine waitstaff
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Wed. and 15 days in June, Reservations essential

Romano

$$$$

The Franceschini family has been running this swank seafood eatery since the 1970s. Ebullient host Romano Franceschini is justifiably proud of the food formerly produced by his wife, Franca (she still oversees the kitchen); son Roberto, an accomplished sommelier, presides over the floor. Don't miss the fantasia di pesce crudo (fantasy of raw fish), which arrives at the table with an aroma redolent of the sea, and follow up with any of the marvelous fish seconds. Or you can leave everything in the Franceschinis' hands and order the tasting menu (€125 without wine).

Via Mazzini 120, Viareggio, Tuscany, 55049, Italy
0584-31382
Known For
  • fish brought daily from the docks
  • phenomenal wine list
  • Romano and Roberto
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and Jan. No lunch Tues. in July and Aug., Reservations essential

Schiacciavineria

$

Panini are the order of the day here, and they come with historic names (bearing no relation to what's actually contained between those two pieces of bread). Cured Italian pork products figure heavily, but there are vegetarian and pescatarian options, too. As evidenced by the caramello burro saltato con mascarpone (caramelized butter with a soft, spreadable, cow's milk cheese), dessert might also be served on the restaurant's tasty bread.

Via Paladini 2, Empoli, Tuscany, Italy
Known For
  • tasty sandwiches (including dessert options)
  • great list of wines by the glass
  • outdoor seating in a lively piazza

Sergio Falaschi dal 1925

$$

It's a butcher shop in the front and, on weekends, a great lunch restaurant in the back. Since 1925, the place has been in the hands of the Falaschi family, who source locally and put four generations' worth of experience into turning out excellent food. Though the primi are fine, go for any meat course. This is, after all, a butcher shop.

Via Augusto Conti 18/20, San Miniato, Tuscany, Italy
0571-43190
Known For
  • pork products and pork dishes
  • beef fillet with a creamy, green-peppercorn sauce
  • sunny staff
Restaurants Details
Rate Includes: Restaurant closed weekdays; no dinner

Trattoria da Ubaldo

$

The macabre decor is not for the faint of heart, but any lover of seriously good food can look beyond the disembodied dolls (among other things) adorning the dining room's walls. The menu is strong on local dishes, served in generous portions. If you're lucky, Ubaldo himself will be on the scene.

Via dell'Anfiteatro 67, Lucca, Tuscany, Italy
347-500–4848
Known For
  • grilled meats
  • copious portions of pasta
  • fine, well-priced wine list