Albergaccio
The fact that the dining room can seat only about 35 guests makes a meal here an intimate experience, and the ever-changing menu mixes traditional and creative dishes. In late September and October, zuppa di funghi e castagne (mushroom and chestnut soup) is a treat; grilled meats and seafood are on offer throughout the year. There's also an excellent wine list. When the weather is warm, make sure you dine on the terrace.