6 Best Bars in Cannaregio, Venice

The odd name is Venetian for "smirk," although you'll be hard-pressed to find one at this cheery, familiar bacaro with a wine selection as ample as the cicheti on offer. The spread of delectables ranges from classic polpette of meat and tuna to tomino cheese rounds to speck and robiola rolls, and the selection of wines is equally intriguing. There's often live jazz and blues on Friday and Saturday nights. El Sbarlefo has a second location in Dorsoduro, in the calle just behind the church of San Pantalon.

The city-run casino in splendid Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi is a classic scene of well-dressed high rollers playing French roulette, Caribbean poker, chemin de fer, 30–40, and slots. You must be at least 18 to enter, and men must wear jackets after 8:30 pm to access the "VIP" area.

Paradiso Perduto has been catering to night owls since the '80s with drinks, wine, and slightly overpriced fish dishes (a better option is the cicheti). The old piano has witnessed Chet Baker and Archie Shepp jams, and the place still serves up live music—mainly local and international jazz groups. It attracts young people and students alongside tourists, creating a very lively atmosphere. In temperate weather, patrons fill the fondamenta until they're shooed away.

Guinness and gab flow freely from 5 pm to 1 am at this pub, a favorite expat and student hangout since the 1990s. There are Irish, Italian, and Belgian brews plus cider on tap, as well as sports on TV and occasional live music, either Irish or rock. Small sandwiches are available until late (the segalini are divine).