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For tapas, you'll find bars with signature specialties on the connecting streets Calle del Laurel and Travesía de Laurel, the latter also known as El Sendero de los Elefantes (Path of the Elephants)—an allusion to trompas (trunks), Spanish for a snootful. Try Bar Soriano for champis (champiñones, or mushrooms), Blanco y Negro for matrimonio (a green-pepper-and-anchovy sandwich), and La Travesía for tortilla de patatas. (Spanish omelet) If you're ordering wine, a young cosecha or clarete (a rustic local rosé) comes in squat chato glasses, a crianza brings out the crystal, and a reserva or gran reserva (selected grapes aged over three years in oak and bottle) elicits goblets for proper swirling, nosing, and tasting.
This bright, modern bar is a great spot to try seasonal, market-fresh tapas like heirloom tomato salad with chilies and raw onion or cheesy mushroom "carpaccio," but locals flock here for one dish in particular: oreja a la plancha, griddled pig's ear swimming in punchy brava (spicy) sauce. Shatteringly crisp and unapologetically rich, it's one of the best versions you'll have in Spain.
Tondeluna has six communal tables (with 10 seats each), and all have views into the kitchen, where cooks plate dishes novel and familiar like glazed beef cheeks with apple puree and Getaria-style hake with melty panadera (thinly sliced and roasted) potatoes.
A Calle del Laurel standby, this refined taberna with wood-paneled walls serves Riojan specialties like cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig) and pimentón-laced potatoes a la riojana (potato and chorizo stew). The neighboring La Brasa de Laurel (at No.16) is run by the same team and centers on high-end grilled meats and fish.
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