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Classic but boundary pushing, bank-breaking but exquisite gourmet cuisine has long been one of Basel's fortes. New trends are appearing and disappearing in the blink of an eye. Snuggled between three countries, Basel has inherited the culinary interests of each, and excels with offering its own specialties and those of its neighbors—and beyond.
Eating out here, as anywhere in Switzerland, can be a costly delight, and top of the range. Michelin-starred restaurants are plentiful. At the other end of the scale, you will never have to go far for a German-style sausage, Italian pasta, or mouthwatering desserts, as reliable local restaurants and cafés can be found on practically every street. Basel is, in fact, full of comfortable haunts. The city's down-to-earth fare owes its roots to the Germanic hordes who arrived here to rout the ancient Romans, bringing with them homey dishes like schnitzel and Spätzle (tiny dumplings), all to be washed down with beer.
As for dining specialties, the proximity of the Rhine means that most Basel restaurants serve a variety of freshwater fish. If the city could claim a regional specialty, it would be salmon. (These days much of it is shipped in from elsewhere, but the Rhine variety is making a comeback.) The meaty fish is best served nach Basler Art (Basel-style), meaning in a white-wine marinade with fried onions on top. Try it with a bottle of the fruity local Riesling.
If you're on the Marktplatz, join other hungry shoppers standing in front of mobile kitchens, holding bare Wienerli (hot dogs) and dipping them into thick golden mustard. You should also indulge in Kaffee und Kuchen—the late-afternoon coffee break the neighboring Germans live for. But locals have their own version: instead of a large slice of creamed cake, they select tiny sweet pastries—two or three to a saucer—and may opt for a delicate Chinese tea instead of a Kaffee.
Beyond local specialties, Basel's strengths are Thai and Middle Eastern cuisines, whether you choose the ubiquitous kebab (a Turkish gyro), a spicy bowl of green curry, or one of the fusion dishes that appear even in Basel's most traditional dining rooms.
For a satisfying and budget-friendly lunch, many restaurants offer lunch specials (Tagesmenu) that include a dish of the day, a starter or salad, and maybe even a dessert. They are the best way to eat well on a budget. Smoking is banned in all restaurants in Basel—except on terraces.
Zum Goldenen Fass (the Golden Barrel) bills itself as "radically seasonal and totally regional," with the emphasis on the unique rather than the traditional. Come not for tablecloths or thick menus—you won’t find them—but instead for the focus on local ingredients, a regularly changing menu, and an excellent wine list.
This classic, comfortable gathering place serves typical Swiss food, including Wiener schnitzel and Rösti, with seasonal side dishes, as well as a smattering of international and vegetarian options; in summer, enjoy grilled Schweinswürstl (pork sausages) in the lovely outdoor courtyard. With stained-glass lamps, ceramic stoves, and attractive woodwork, it's a nice mix of bistro and beer hall.
With its floor-to-ceiling windows, vaulted ceilings, and wide-open spaces, this eclectic eatery on the edge of the Old Town offers a cosmopolitan atmosphere where you can find cuisine from around the world. The market-fresh lunch menu changes daily and the dinner menu rotates monthly, but the Thai curries are always a good bet, and the salade de chevre chaud croustillant (warm and crispy goat cheese salad) with truffle oil and honey is a tasty classic with a twist. There's also an impressive cocktail bar and music until the wee hours of the morning. The sidewalk terrace is a perfect spot to lunch and people-watch in warm weather.
The Teufelhof hotel's less expensive dining option, the artsy Atelier serves modern cuisine made with regional ingredients. Daily specials are written on chalkboards, and the unfussy à la carte menu always features lighter fare like soups and salads along with seasonal pasta, vegetarian, and meat plates. The house specialty is a classic, though now hard to find, Basel dish: veal cutlets from a local butcher served with fried potatoes and wild pepper jus. Wine is also more than an afterthought here, with more than 400 bottles on its appealing Swiss- and Euro-centric list. Best of all, unlike many Basel restaurants, Atelier is open on Sunday and Monday.
The restaurant part of the Fischerstube, a famous local brewery, has a simple look, with whitewashed walls and sanded wooden tables, and offers a range of tasty snacks like oven-fresh pretzels to heartier meat-heavy dishes of sausages, schnitzel, and burgers. The brewery produces its own lagers and ales in the copper tanks you see at the back of the room; if you're serious about sampling the local color, stop in here for a cold one. If you like the Ueli Bier, named for a Fasnacht jester, you can buy a keg to take home—or ask for one at your table. In summer, the small rooftop beer garden is very popular.
Not far from the Middle Bridge and right next to the Rhine, this self-proclaimed “urban Swiss” restaurant has a rustic-chic look inside and a wonderful terrace overlooking the river outside. The short but satisfying menu includes an interesting selection of meat and veggie starters, creative versions of hamburgers and fish-and-chips, and a regularly changing choice of shareable dishes using seasonal, local ingredients.
This friendly place serves up a delightful mix of veggie and meat dishes for lunch and dinner, or you can just stop by for a dessert, if you'd like. For scenic value, it's hard to beat the tables strewn around the plaza, since they have a direct view of the cathedral's towers.
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