L'Auberge de l'Onde
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Once the main relais (stagecoach stop) between the Simplon Pass and Geneva, this vineyard spot is out of central casting, groaning with history and heady with atmosphere: Igor Stravinsky and Charlie Chaplin were among the artists loyal to its charms. The tiny wood-paneled pinte, where winemakers come to read the daily papers—with a pitcher of St-Saph, as they call it—and to devour the upscale plat du jour, is enticing, as are the adjacent, white-tablecloth salons and upstairs-attic-beamed grillroom. The staff hovers while day-tripping connoisseurs and repeat faithfuls sniff and roll perfumed wine over their tongues and savor exquisite dishes from the top-notch kitchen.
