Fodor's Expert Review Pêche Seafood Grill

The name implies fish, and that's what you'll find at this modern temple to seafood, the brainchild of nearby Cochon proprietors Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski. In addition to an airy, modern space enhanced by exposed beams and a wood-burning grill, the dining room has a fascinating history: the building was a former mortuary that claims to have embalmed Confederate president Jefferson Davis. If that doesn't give you something to talk about, the crowd-satisfying fare will: there's head-on, grilled whole fish; smothered catfish with pickled greens; and excellent non-fish options. The small plates offer inventive options such as curried mussels, spicy ground shrimp with noodles, and a raw bar menu featuring the best of local oysters, and an excellent seafood salad.