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Welcome to the third wave of Philadelphia dining, an era in which locals are more likely to chat you up about their favorite chorizo tacos, wild-yeasted ales, or tasting menu than anything cheesesteak. Yes, the famous sandwich is still around (eat one if you must) but is slowly losing traction to its distant cousin, the roast pork. This is the Philly sandwich to try, be it a traditional rendition at John’s or DiNic’s in Reading Terminal Market or a new-school take, like the one topped with lacto-fermented broccoli rabe at High Street on Market.
Speaking of Old City’s High Street, its chef/partner, Eli Kulp, represents a group of Philadelphia chefs that has had a massive impact on the dining scene in the last few years: the ex–New Yorkers. Like Kulp, Peter Serpico of Serpico, Eli Collins of Pub and Kitchen, Greg Vernick of Vernick Food & Drink and other talented former 212-ers have shifted their careers here from some of NYC’s finest kitchens and restaurant groups. Even in East Passyunk and Fishtown, white-hot neighborhoods that are dethroning Center City as Philly’s dining nucleus, inflated rents are bargains compared to those in the Big Apple.
The recent influx of out-of-town chefs complements Philly’s homegrown talent. This has always been a scene that has fostered and supported its own, and the last several years have seen young chefs rising through the kitchens of Stephen Starr, Marc Vetri, and Georges Perrier and going on to debut compelling, idiosyncratic, solo projects. Like Pierre Calmels, who left the storied (now closed) Le Bec-Fin to open tiny Bibou in Bella Vista, and his LBF successor, Nicholas Elmi, who won Top Chef after opening Laurel on East Passyunk. (To give you an idea of the depth of talent in the 215, Elmi is the second Philly chef to win Top Chef.) And then there’s Michael Solomonov, a former Vetri capo who went on to found Zahav, the restaurant that ignited America’s passion for Israeli cuisine, and win a James Beard Award. Solo (as he’s affectionately known here) is in conscientious empire-building mode with longtime business partner, Steve Cook, and mentoring a new generation of young chefs. You can still catch him working the bread station at Zahav most nights, between annual research trips to Israel and surfing breaks at the Jersey Shore.
The Israeli, Iraqi, Turkish, and Yemenite recipes on the menu at Zahav are just a handful of the cuisines represented in this multiethnic town. Philadelphia has a long history as a city of immigrants, from Western Europeans in the early 20th century to the Vietnamese, Mexicans, and Africans of today. Chinatown reigns as the city’s hub of hand-pulled noodles, breakneck dim sum, and siphon coffee before it was cool, while Middle Eastern, Ethiopian, and Senegalese hideaways occupy tree-lined storefronts and old banks in West Philly. Vietnamese pho halls and bakeries congregate along Washington Avenue in South Philly, also home to the city’s vibrant Mexican population. In the Italian Market, many of the old businesses have given way to industrious taquerias. You can follow the trail of fresh-pressed tortilla crumbs from Bella Vista down into East Passyunk, a hood where it’s not uncommon to hear Spanish, Vietnamese, and five different dialects of Italian just walking down the street.
Jonathan Cichon has proven himself to be a worthy successor to this luxe establishment and one who forges his own way with graceful dishes using seasonal, prestige ingredients. He is bigger on elegance and shorter on whimsy than his predecessors, with dishes like lobster crepes, and chicken liver and foie gras mousse with watermelon glaze. Combined with a 500-plus-label cellar of high-end bottles and a gorgeous dining room overlooking Rittenhouse Square, a meal here is guaranteed to be one of your most memorable. There's also the $75 blowout Sunday brunch—a tremendous value, believe it or not.
Brass rails, silvered mirrors, claret-hued banquettes, and oak wainscoting reclaimed from now-shuttered Parisian restaurants, imbue patina—while small touches like newspapers on wooden poles, create extra realism—in the meticulous stage set placed on Philadelphia's most desirable corner by restaurateur Stephen Starr. Similarly, standard menu items (roasted chicken, trout amandine) hold their own, but the little things—desserts and salads, fresh-baked goods (including house-made macaroons), and excellent onion soup—stand out. Ask for an indoor-outdoor table overlooking the park: you'll get generous views and the pleasant din of the 150 diners behind you without the deafening buzz that is the restaurant's one true downside.
Pub & Kitchen has been a favorite since it opened in 2009 with a daily selection of oysters and a menu that includes everything from a sweet-and-savory fried-chicken sandwich to a kick-ass cheeseburger. But even if the food menu wasn't a star, locals would flock to this energetic saloon to unwind with friends or catch the game. In what used to be a dive bar, P&K is an unpretentious, attractive hangout with hardwood floors, exposed brick walls, tables fashioned from reclaimed floor joists, and familiar rock music playing from the speakers.
When the Reading Company opened its train shed in 1892, it was the only one in the country with a market tucked away in its cellar. The trains are long gone, but the food remains. And while disagreeing over the best cheesesteak is a popular pastime in Philly, pretty much everyone can agree on pancakes at the Dutch Eating Place, the roast pork sandwich at DiNic's, whoopie pies at the Flying Monkey, and double chocolate-chip cookies at Famous 4th Street. Recent years have seen worthy newcomers to the entrenched mix: German deli Wursthaus Schmitz, Valley Shepherd Creamery's grilled cheese counter, and La Divisa Meats, for example. Get here early to beat the lunch rush. Seventy-five-minute tours every Wednesday and Saturday highlight the market's history and offerings (call 215/545–8007 to make a reservation).
The opening of this hip, industrial-chic trattoria by chef Marc Vetri rendered his talents more accessible to those who don't have the foresight to make reservations months in advance at his celebrated eponymous restaurant nearby. The small plates of Roman comfort food by longtime chef Brad Spence feature interesting elevated takes on Roman classics like tonarelli cacio e pepe, trippa alla Romana, and rigatoni all'amatriciana. Try to grab one of the six first-come, first-served stools at the chef's counter to watch the James Beard–award-winning action.
Housed inside a former greenhouse, Cake is a refined spot for breakfast and lunch, though the sweets and pastries are still a highlight at this former bakery. The menu includes creative twists on lunchtime classics: try the Philly cheesesteak marsala or the croque monsieur brushed with apricot mustard. Light streams in through the greenhouse glass and a fountain occupies the center of the room.
Away from the Parkway, this intimate, cash-only BYOB focuses on the flavors of Morocco and the Mediterranean, setting the mood with simple decor including Moroccan lamps, trays, and decorative items. The baked Brie in clay pot appetizer with honey and almonds is a standout; usually there's a good tagine (stew of meat or poultry simmered with vegetables, olives, garlic, and spices) on the menu, and fish options are plentiful. The many lunch choices include appetizers, salads, and sandwiches, as well as mains.
This authentically Mexican family-run place is an anomaly in sceney Northern Liberties. The colors, both inside and out, are warm and bright and the food is simple and rather gently spiced, apropos of the family's roots in the town of Puebla. Mexican sodas and fruity juices complement the restaurant's BYOB policy.
Latin American and Caribbean cuisine mix in an airy, two-story space on historic Antique Row, a few blocks below Broad Street. The place feels like a well-loved neighborhood joint, with its friendly vibe, heaping portions of slightly greasy food, and Latin music that sets the mood for some of the city's best mojitos. Occasionally the food reaches new heights, as with their paella Valenciana and some solid brunch offerings, including a delicious Colombian frittata, made with plantains and chorizo.
North Third is one of the first restaurants to settle in Northern Liberties at the infancy of the neighborhood's transformation. The menu hasn't changed much, mostly because locals love hits like the Moroccan-spiced lamb burger, mushroom flatbread, and house-made pierogies. Weekend brunch here—breakfast burrito, berry-topped French toast—is one of the best in the area.
It's largely locals eating at this smallish banquet space on the edge of Chinatown, and things can get a bit hectic with big-screen TVs hanging from every corner, spangly chandeliers overhead, and dim sum carts racing through the aisles. Snag a seat next to the kitchen to flag down the carts as they emerge—the dim sum is excellent and well priced.
The name refers to a lovely mural rather than a window view from this lively spot inside the Penn's View Hotel. The restaurant has the largest wine cruvinet (storage system) in the country. Besides more than 120 wines by the glass, there's a huge selection of well-chosen bottles. You can sip them in Il Bar or in the main dining room. The food is authentic Italian—simple and hearty. The ambience is either noisy or animated, depending on your tolerance level.
The cheery first floor of a renovated bank feels like a genuine Irish pub. A long bar with a dozen spigots is invariably spouting several imported and a few local brews. This is the place to get a Guinness poured the correct way. In winter, patrons crowd around a blazing fireplace on stools set around small tables. It's possible to munch on good Irish smoked salmon on grainy bread while imbibing; you can also head to the upstairs dining room for some respite from the crush and choose from a panoply of worldly appetizers, salads, and main courses.
Mark Bee, the local restaurateur behind favorite gastropub N. 3rd, bought the Silk City Diner in 2006, polished off its grease-coated, 1950s-era pink Formica counter, and started serving updated comfort food. Menu items include a fierce plate of buttermilk fried chicken, deep-fried veggie wings, the city's best bowl of mac and cheese (baked with a garlic-bread crust), and some lighter fare (salads and roasted veggies) should you want to go next door to the bar and lounge and dance 'til dawn beneath the disco ball.
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