20 Best Restaurants in The Cayes and Atolls, Belize

Near the tip of the island, this gem is hidden in plain sight. Tuck into a plate of stove-fresh pita, creamy hummus, and skewers of onion-parsley shrimp grilled in a boat of foil, all made by the charming chef Ana. These deep-flavored dishes are a wonderful surprise. It's not fast food, so have a smoothie while you wait in the family's front yard. Vegetarians will appreciate the superior options here.

Cash only.

Croc's owner, Belizean Ivan Luna, knows what he's doing: after years of industry experience, he has made this three-story palapa a lovable hangout for locals, ex-pats, Belizean vacationers from the mainland, and travelers. The service and menu are both impressive, with reasonably priced rum drinks, ceviche, and other island fare. Catching the sunset here is a no-brainer, but you can also come by later for the nightlife scene. Crocs indeed live in the lagoon, but don't drop them nachos: feeding crocodiles is illegal and dangerous for the apex predators. Watch them from afar.

Named for the open wood-fire cooking hearth ("faya haat" in Kriol), El Fogon serves authentic down-home Belizean cooking like chaya tamales, Creole stews, and gibnut (a small game rodent and delicacy). El Fogon feels like a hole-in-the-wall, but it's actually one of the most renowned spots on the island. Think island-casual but with the quality dialed up (you sit at picnic tables, but the picnic tables have cloth runners). Dishes are prepared in cast-iron pots in a traditional fogón. Next to it, a mountain of fresh veggies, about to be chopped, is part of the decor. Though it's in town, it's a little hard to find: ask any local where it is.

On the lagoon side, the hip-to-the-max Truck Stop pulses as the social hub of North Ambergris. Five shipping containers with different owners dish up "Nuevo Latino" food, New Haven-style pizza, trendy ice cream, a host of drinks, and other goodies. Out back, a deck sits over the lagoon (the "Warning: Crocodiles" signs are not just decorative) where folks gather in the pool for sunset. There's something for everyone: play corn hole with your kids, sunbathe with a few Belikins, or bring your big group of friends for dinner. At first blush it looks touristy, but San Pedranos love this spot, too. The Truck Stop knows entertainment: there is a film shown by the lagoon every Wednesday, trivia and adult spelling bees, and live music on the regular.

Want to step a little off the tourist trail? Head over to Aurora's––she's one of the first to plant her flag at Secret Beach, and one of the few Belizean owners currently there. Aurora dishes up fresh seafood in a small outdoor bar on the water. It's nothing flashy, but it sure is tasty. 

Blue Bayou is sure to please: set slightly apart from the Secret Beach hubbub, it has partially underwater picnic tables and friendly servers who wade into the lagoon to take your meal order. Blue Bayou is a slightly less touristy hangout in this area (emphasis on slightly). The turquoise water is Blue Bayou's main attraction, as there isn't much of a beach. The quesadillas and nachos are mediocre, but the hot-from-the-grill shrimp and fish dishes do the trick after an hour of swimming. Live music is a hit on weekends, but music is pumping pretty much always. Careful not to lose a straw in the water---this is inside the Hol Chan Marine Reserve. 

For a good cup of coffee and a splash of color, this little café cum art gallery in the heart of Front Street is the place to go. Owner and longtime expat artist Lee Vanderwalker sells her painted canvases and silks here. The café serves up good pancakes, huevos rancheros, bagels (rare in Belize), and a smattering of healthy lunch plates, including gluten free and vegan options. 

Plunk down at a mint-green picnic table and tuck into a coconut curry, grilled fish, or––better yet––a meringue-topped key lime pie (probably the island's best). Breakfast is killer, too, and at local prices. This counter-service joint is as low-key as it gets, and cheaper than anything waterfront. Note that Juan's doesn't serve alcohol.  

Build your ideal breakfast from a mix-and-match chalkboard menu at San Pedro's most classic breakfast spot, famous for its fry jacks served with honey and mango jam. A favorite among locals and visitors, Estel's gets well-earned hype for its cheap-ish eats and morning cocktail specials. Estel's even has grits! The porthole windows, decorative buoys, and sandy floors give the joint a nautical atmosphere––not the mention the sea in its front yard. Best seats are on the porch or on wooden benches with mini-thatch roofs, where you can watch pelicans and passersby. Later in the day you'll find tacos, down-home cooking, and great seafood dishes here. 

Dining under fairy lights and a shaggy thatch roof is a wonderful way to conclude your day on Caulker. Seafood is the rage at this remodeled palapa restaurant, and there's an iced display of the catch of the day; choose from snapper, grouper, barracuda, or lobster and have it grilled on the spot. The bartenders have been known to make great things happen from dragon fruit and local rum. This spot is formerly Rose's.

"Sunny place for shady people" is the old-time slogan of the Lazy Lizard, the hangout that still reigns at the ever-happening Split. Wade with some friends into the Caribbean with an icy bucket of Belikins, or jump of the rickety diving platform (but do it sober). If you're not feeling that gutsy, at night you can watch the fish as multicolored spotlights illuminate the water. Don't expect cheap drinks or gourmet bar snacks (think plasticky nacho cheese). But the location makes the Lizard an iconic hangout.

The air-conditioned setting feels more United States than Caribbean, but Mesa plates up delicious change-of-pace dishes like churro-spice pancakes or, for lunch, sweet potato tacos. Vegetarians will appreciate the savory bean cake Benedict, among other options. Local drip coffee does nicely in the morning.

At any given time, two or three generations of the owner's family staff this outdoor eatery, which serves some of the best pineapple shrimp and coconut curry on Caye Caulker. You’ll sit under fluorescent lights with feet in the sand, while your dinner sizzles behind you in a tiny kitchenette or on a barbecue grill. Reina’s has a full bar but no straws (a big bonus for marine life). During the day, the family sells tasty meat pies next door. 

Line up beside the smoking grill for a delicious, no-nonsense plate of jerk chicken with sides. Homemade sauce is dished from a big plastic mixing bowl and Fanta and juices are in the back (but don't expect mixed drinks). Eat under the thatch and chat with the lovely Jamaican-Belizean owners, or get your meal to go. Bring napkins--and cash, as no credit cards are accepted.

The less rowdy competitor of Lazy Lizard, Sip n' Dip is a playful spot to kick it in the water, rum punch in hand. Though the swimming here isn't as good or deep as at the Lizard, you're a stone's throw from that area; plus the inner tubes and submerged tables make up for it. It's more family-friendly, with a modest playground and a little upcycled water slide into the sea. The basic lunch menu is surprisingly tasty. Sip n' Dip closes up shop at 6 pm, so it's a good spot to beat the daytime heat.

More than a just pit stop, this cute roadside joint offers pick-me-ups in the way of creative smoothies, iced mochas, healthy and not-so-healthy shakes, and baguette paninis. It also stocks a small market with Belizean cheeses, jellies, cacao beans, meats, and fruits. Swing by on your way to Secret Beach or anywhere north.

Cheesy name aside, Magic Grill is a delightful, breezy perch where you can dine on treehouse-like levels of a palapa overlooking the Caribbean. Okra snapper, sesame-seed shrimp, and Belizean comfort food are on offer, but the real draw is the dreamy setting. 

This waterside palapa is your spot for––you guessed it––a beautiful sunset. The Pelican is known for its many ceviches (they may be a little overhyped, but still nothing to sneeze at), and seafood in general is tasty here. The bartenders make amazing things happen from fresh juices and local rum. The joint has a lively atmosphere and seating can get crowded, but it's good fun.

This open-air favorite is your spot for handmade pupusas (pockets of masa filled with meat or veggies and cooked on a griddle). The huge pupusas will only run you about BZ$3–BZ$6 each, and range from spinach to pork to the idiosyncratic "crazy" flavor. An array of (more expensive) seafood and meat dishes is also on offer. For tropical decadence try the coconut cream burritos filled with seafood or chicken while you enjoy the town's bustle just feet away. Waruguma is a great, low-key family dinner spot.